New London Behind The Counter

Behind the Brand: Odile Lecoin

Sun, 10 Jan 2010 21:46:06 -0500

"Behind the Brand" is part of an ongoing series wherein New London's expert staff takes readers on a guided tour of the store's most hard-to-find product lines.

Brand: Odile Lecoin
Brand reviewer: Jessica Crescenzi, New London’s beauty director

Part of what makes New London such a unique boutique is its awe-inspiring array of international brands. Abby Fazio, New London’s co-founder and our in-house beauty goddess, has made it her life’s work to suss out the most fabulous, most efficacious lines, stocking the store’s shelves with products that hail from the most remote places on the planet. That being said, not everyone has the time, money or patience to explore every single item we offer, so we thought we’d lend a hand and highlight a few of our favorites. This week, I bring you my experience avec Odile Lecoin.

My skin type: Sensitive. I’m also prone to dryness and occasional t-zone breakouts
My skin tone: Fair
My age: 28
Trial duration: One month

The results:
OR J'Illumine Cleanser ($80): Grade A
Nicknamed ”the divine cleansing milk,” this emollient face wash takes a little getting used to since it doesn’t require rinsing. Using a soft cotton pad, I simply swabbed away the product and my skin was left squeaky clean yet super soft. What I loved about OR J’Illumine was that it removed my makeup without leaving behind a filmy residue, unlike other rinse-less cleansers.

OR Je Suis Serum ($175): Grade B
This silky, subtly aromatic serum soaked right into my skin. As per Odile’s recommendation, I applied the serum using a light, rhythmic tapping, which helps facilitate absorption. Since my skin is susceptible to dry patches – particularly during the winter – OR Je Suis didn’t provide the intense hydration I crave, and I generally prefer serums with a thicker, creamier formula. However, my skin did feel temporarily firmer post-application.

OR Je Vis Moisturizer ($225): Grade A
Since my skin is extra sapped right now, I used this rich cream both day and night. I love the buttery texture of this product and it offers long-lasting moisture that leaves skin feeling smooth and supple, (its secret ingredient is a superhero molecule found in hardy deep ocean microorganisms). While OR Je Vis does boast a slightly heavier consistency than most day creams, for complexions inclined to dryness, roughness and hypersensitivity, it’s a savior.

OR Passion, Dolce Vita Masque ($135): Grade A+
Hands-down, the mask was my favorite Odile product. This moisturizing skin soother is mild enough to leave on for hours at a time, which is especially handy for frequent fliers suffering from itchy-tight “Plane Face.” The Dolce Vita Mask is also appropriate for a quick 10-minute moisture infusion and it helps guard against environmental free radicals, which erode collagen and elastin.    

Overall GPA: A-
Final word: Without hesitation, I'd recommend Odile Lecoin for dry, sensitive skin types. It provided ample moisture (with the exception of the serum), and it left my parched complexion looking nourished and radiant. Beauty director approved!

Gifts of Beauty

Tue, 08 Dec 2009 15:07:50 -0500

The holidays are here! We’re decking the halls at New London Pharmacy and stocking our aisles with a sleigh full of goodies bound to brighten even the bleakest winter day. While presenting your dearly beloved with a beauty product may seem like an odd – even controversial - choice to some, I believe it’s one of the most personal, intimate gifts you can give. It’s not about telling the recipient they need to look better, it’s about inviting a loved one to feel better.

Our knowledgeable staff is on-hand everyday to help you sort through our extensive collection of international and hard-to-find beauty brands. And, to make your holiday shopping a little merrier, we also offer complimentary gift-wrapping on all in-store purchases. From all of us at New London, wishing you and yours a beautiful December.

-Abby

For the Dapper Dad
He raised you right, now help him razor right with a posh new shaving accessory that’ll keep dad – and mom – smiling from ear to ear.

SPLURGE: Ergonomically designed, entirely handmade and crafted from the finest whisker-lifting badger bristles, Acqua Di Parma Collezione’s Barbiere Shaving Brush ($349) is the barber shop gold standard.

SAVE: Infused with moisturizing almond and jojoba oils, protective beeswax, and nourishing shea butter, Musgo Real’s Pre-Shave Oil and After-Shave Balsam ($22 each) will keep dad soft, smooth, and looking oh-so-manly.

For Mother Dearest
She coddled and cosseted, pampered and pleased, isn’t it time you returned the favor?

SPLURGE: This year’s must-have youth elixirs, Rodin Olio Lusso Face and Body Oils ($90-$135) are blended with a superbly skin-softening complex of 11 botanical essential oils. With its supple texture and nuanced fragrance, each application is like a mini session with an all-star aesthetician.

SAVE: A nighttime salve for sapped skin, Aesop’s Fabulous Face Oil ($58) is fragrant and non-greasy, combining hydrating extracts like ylang ylang and jasmine petal for an invigorating, deeply restorative treatment.

For the College Freshman
A well-stocked shower caddy is a hot commodity in even the dirtiest dorm. Keep ‘em clean this Christmas with a stash of deluxe toiletries.

SPLURGE: Gentle enough for color-treated hair, Louise Galvin’s Natural Locks Pure Shine Shampoo and Conditioner ($22 each) imparts lackluster locks with a healthy-looking sheen. J&E Atkinson’s I Coloniali Aromatic Soap with Illipe Butter ($25) comes with its own nifty ceramic dish and refuels parched skin with a rich butter formulation. Perfect for those in-room study nights, the MoroccanOil Treatment ($44) deep conditions dry tresses with an ultra-light consistency that immediately absorbs into the hair shaft.

SAVE: Burt's Bees’ Grapefruit & Sugar Beet Shampoo and Conditioner ($8 each) are brewed with a veritable feast of fruity extracts, including grapefruit, coconut, sugar beet and tangerine, to boost radiance while strengthening the hair’s cuticle from the inside out. Burt's Bees’ Naturally Nourishing Milk & Shea Butter Body Bar ($8) comes in a pack of two and packs a one-two punch of moisturizing body butters for soft, smooth skin. Weleda’s Rosemary Hair Oil ($13) treats both the hair and scalp taming dry, frizzy locks and sealing split ends.

For the Well-Heeled Wife
With one of these fine fragrances, she’ll wear you close to her heart all day long.

SPLURGE: Multifaceted and ambiguously androgynous, Creed’s Millesime Imperial ($210) slowly reveals full-bodied mid-notes like Sicilian bergamot, mandarin, Florentine iris and musk. As the fragrance evolves, my husband seems to find me exponentially more irresistible…

SAVE: An aromatic homage to the legendary Italian who unwittingly became the Renaissance Queen of France, I Profumi Di Firenzi's Caterina de Medici ($99, in-store only) is a lush, exceedingly floral fragrance that blooms with sweet top notes and pure undertones of Damascus rose and lily. Adding to its intrigue, this elegant scent was originally formulated during Caterina’s reign in the 16th century.

For the Deserving Husband
Marriage may be the ride of a lifetime, but keep the journey smelling sweeter with a timeless scent that’s as unique as he is.

SPLURGE: Rugged, masculine and outrageously sexy, Creed’s Himalaya ($210) is like a breath of fresh mountain air. While the fragrance initially entices with the crisp scent of bergamot and grapefruit, that first whiff fades to reveal a warm base of sandalwood, cedar, amber, and musk.

SAVE: Molton Brown’s Re-charge Black Pepper Eau de Toilette ($60) is a spicy, earthy cologne that captivates the senses with exotic notes like Italian bergamot, Egyptian cumin, Nigerian ginger, Slovenian oakmoss and Indonesian patchouli.

For the Trusty BFF
All ears and always on your side, repay your best friend’s unwavering loyalty with a girl’s best friend: an updated collection of professional-grade makeup brushes.

SPLURGE: Becca Eye Color Brush #10 ($33); Bronzing Shimmering Fan #39 ($39); Medium Blush Powder Brush #15 ($51); and Portable Lip Brush #20 ($31).
Individually handcrafted, Becca’s wood-handled brushes are comprised of the softest natural and synthetic hair available - including raccoon and sable - for precise, flawless application.

SAVE: Jane Iredale Dome Brush ($35); White Fan Brush ($12); Eye Shader Brush ($9) and Sable Lip Brush ($15).
Functional, practical and cruelty-free, Jane Iredale’s hardy brushes are hand-tied using natural fibers like goat hair and boar’s bristle.

For the Harried Hostess
Put the “ho ho ho” back in holiday hosting with a spa-worthy stock of post-party products.

SPLURGE: Molton Brown’s Warming Eucalyptus Body Scrub and Eucalyptus Bath Gel ($28 each) unwind tense muscles and help clear up any lingering post-event congestion. The Heavenly Gingerlilly Body Cream ($28) will transport your hassled host to a calmer place with a blend of essential oils imported from Polynesia. We also carry a variety of pre-packaged Molton Brown Bath Gel gift sets in-store.

SAVE: Wrapped in ultra-gifty, ultra-girly packaging, Roger & Gallet’s Bamboo Moisturizing Shower Cream ($16) and Lifting Body Cream with Bamboo Sap ($18) are hydrating, bamboo-infused potions that will wash away those long days of preparation.

For the Mother-to-Be
She’s been bestowed with baby’s every last bottle, rattle and bassinet, so give your best mommy friend some much-needed TLC.

SPLURGE: Prepared using a non-irritating, 100% organic blend of lavender, chamomile, marigold and rosehip, The Organic Pharmacy’s Mother and Baby Massage Oil ($48) is a supremely hydrating concoction that effuses a relaxing fragrance to encourage a restful night’s sleep. The massage oil and the Apricot and Chamomile Baby Wash ($34) are both mild enough to use on baby, once she arrives.

SAVE: Formulated for the most sensitive skin, Jurlique’s Calming Bath Oil ($18) and Massage Oil ($25) boast comforting chamomile and lavender, which promise to make bedtime a breeze.

For the Discerning Boss
She signs your paycheck – do you need any more incentive to find the right gift?

SPLURGE: A new take on a holiday favorite, Antica Farmacista's Home Ambiance No. 11 ($62) is a limited edition reed diffuser that’s bottled in an antique apothecary flask and loaded with zesty notes of Sicilian mandarin, blood orange, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and spruce.

SAVE: Ensconced in satin and lace, Avenue's Canton Road Candle ($44, in-store only) permeates the house with a fragrant mélange of white tea, lychee, grapefruit and apricot. My own “flavor” of choice, Canton Road is a clean-burning soy wax candle that lasts for up to 85 hours, so you’ll stay on her mind straight through bonus season.

Cold Weather Cleansers

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 09:24:56 -0500

When it comes to parched winter skin, the culprit isn’t the cooler climate; it’s that hissing heater pumping out bone-dry air. To keep skin feeling soft and supple - even when the office furnace is on full-blast - try swapping out your summer cleanser for a nourishing balm- or lotion-based face wash. Read on for daily cleansing tips and the most common questions that crop up behind my counter.

In the morning, perk up your skin with a splash of lukewarm water; hot temps open pores and allow moisture to escape. Rub a dime-sized amount of gel or lotion cleanser between the palms of your hands, then gently massage it into skin using circular strokes to stimulate circulation and flush out impurities. Rinse with cool water and skip the face brushes and washcloths in the AM to preserve moisture and prevent inadvertent exfoliation, which can heighten sensitivity. Gently blot your face with a towel leaving skin slightly damp. Immediately apply your favorite moisturizer or serum to lock in hydration.

At night, make sure to erase the day’s makeup, dirt and grime before bacteria has a chance to seep into pores and cause nasty blockages and blemishes. Splash your face with lukewarm water and apply a dime-sized amount of cleansing balm or lotion with a soft washcloth, using that same circular stroke. Not only is this soothing ritual a great way to relax before tucking in, but the washcloth’s knobby texture facilitates a deeper cleanse while the balm prevents dehydration. Rinse with lukewarm water, pat dry (don’t rub), and slather your favorite night cream on damp skin.

Ask Abby:

Q: How will I know if my summer cleanser is too harsh for the winter?
A: Don’t worry, you’ll know. If you have dry skin to begin with, your face will feel tight, even itchy, almost like you’re wearing a mask. You may also experience redness and flaking, which signals irritation. If your skin is oilier, you may actually start over-producing sebum, which will lead to acne or a more deeper, painful inflammation of current breakouts.

Q: In general, what cleansers work best for dry winter skin?
A: On my own dry complexion, I use The Organic Pharmacy’s Carrot Butter Cleanser at night, which is a hydrating balm that preserves moisture while whisking away dirt and makeup. Balms in general are more nourishing and less abrasive than traditional soap-based cleansers. In the morning, dry skin sufferers should stick with a gentle gel or lotion that has calming properties, like The Organic Pharmacy’s Rose Facial Cleansing Gel or Duchess Marden’s Foaming Cleanser (in-store).

Q: What are a few hydrating ingredients to look for on the cleanser's label?
A: There are actually two types of hydrators. Occlusives, like petrolatum and lanolin (found in Alaur’s Meristem Cleansing Lotion), keep moisture from evaporating, and humectants, like hyaluronic or lactic acid (found in Embryolisse’s Purifying Milk Wash), draw moisture into the skin. Typically, dry skin sufferers opt for occlusives, which offer a richer texture, while oilier complexions prefer humectants, since they tend to be more transparent. In general, scan the label for moisturizers like shea butter, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, rose, aloe and vitamin E.

Q: My skin is oily year-round; do I need to switch my cleanser during the winter?
A: Unless your skin starts drying out, stick with what works. But if you haven’t yet found a cleanser that keeps skin happy, try Dr. Hauschka’s Cleansing Cream or The Organic Pharmacy’s Peppermint Facial Wash, which is loaded with bacteria-fighting ingredients like tea tree oil, eucalyptus and peppermint, as well as lubricating essential oils. Many of my oily-complexioned clients steer clear of oil-rich cleansers fearing a bad case of shiny face, but the opposite is true. Oil actually attracts oil, breaking it down without over-drying. When it comes to slicker skin, the goal isn’t a total dry-out; it’s to balance the amount of sebum your skin produces.

Q: During the winter, should I wash my face before and after working out, or is that too much?
A: Sudsing up four times a day is overkill, but post-workout, it is important to de-grease your complexion. Your sweat is packed with moisture-sapping salt and pore-clogging sebum so cleanse your skin with a soap-free, alcohol-free face wash like Odile Lecoin J'illumine. This hydrating, non-sticky milk formulation removes impurities without damaging the skin’s hydrolipidic barrier (its protective layer of oil). If your skin still feels dry on days you hit the gym, apply Clark’s Botanicals’ Deep Moisture Mask before bed (available in-store).

Q: I think my cleanser is aggravating my rosacea, what can I do?
A: Hypersensitive, rosacea-prone skin should only be washed with a cleansing milk or balm. In the morning, coddle your complexion with a lotion-based cleanser, like Jurlique’s Soothing Cleansing Lotion or The Organic Pharmacy’s Rose & Chamomile Cleansing Milk, to tame inflammation. During the day, keep a bottle of Duchess Marden’s Rose Spray on-hand to boost hydration while quelling redness. At night, try The Organic Pharmacy’s Carrot Butter Cleanser, which calms skin with a blend of chamomile and rosemary. And never wash your face with hot water - this will only exacerbate redness.

Did we skip your winter cleanser question? Just click the "Ask Abby" tab below!

Ask Abby: My Daily Skincare Routine

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:44:59 -0500

Even though I’ve spent the past three decades in the beauty industry, my complexion never ceases to confound me. Hormonal changes (hello menopause!), lifestyle fluctuations (thanks recession!) and environmental antagonists like sun and smog all contribute to a general decline in clarity, smoothness and elasticity. While these gradual – but inevitable – changes can be frustrating, I’ve finally established a new regimen that works for my more grown-up complexion.

As the owner of a modern apothecary, the state of my skin is under constant scrutiny, but much to my delight, more clients than ever have been asking what my day-to-day product protocol entails. So, in the spirit of total disclosure, I’ve decided to divulge my current skincare routine, but bear in mind, the following list is tailored for a complexion that’s prone to dryness, dullness, menopausal-related melasma, sunspots and loss of firmness. Also, stay tuned for a separate piece on my roster of daily supplements; what you ingest is just as important as what you apply.

In the Morning:
    • Step 1: CLEANSE. As soon as I’m awake, I wash my face with Julisis' Gold Wash Day, which creates a foamy lather loaded with gold-derived antioxidants - minus any harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate.
    • Step 2: PREP. To prime skin for the application of serums, I use The Organic Pharmacy’s Rose & Bilberry Toning Gel. Not a toner in the traditional sense, this nourishing gel is a non-astringent anti-ager that soothes away redness using a complex of rose hip, aloe vera and seaweed.
    • Step 3: SPOT TREAT. To fade existing sunspots and encourage a more uniform skin tone, I apply The Organic Pharmacy’s Rose Plus Brightening Complex, which is packed with natural antioxidants and exfoliating fruit enzymes.
    • Step 4: MOISTURIZE. I am a chemist at heart, so to create my own custom-blended concoction, I mix two drops of The Organic Pharmacy’s Antioxidant Face-Firming Serum with the Rose Plus Anti-Aging Cream. This non-greasy duo restores luster, hydrates and improves elasticity while helping to prevent hyperpigmentation. The effect mimics an instant facelift. I apply a separate eye cream – Julisis’ Eyemulsion - since the delicate eye contour should be treated with the utmost care to prevent excessive tugging or pulling.
    • Step 5: PROTECT. Everyday, I apply Julisis’ Sun Emulsion SPF 30, which is a broad-spectrum sunscreen. If you have time for nothing else in the morning, at least apply sun protection!

During the Day:
    • REFRESH: To perk up tired, dehydrated skin, I spritz my face with Duchess Marden’s Damascena Pure Rose Water. Ideal for clients prone to rosacea since it quickly calms an irritated complexion, this Rose Spray can also be used directly on top of makeup.

Before Bed:
    • Step 1: CLEANSE. You’ve heard it before, but you should never tuck in without washing away the day’s dirt, grime and layer of makeup. At night, I use a washcloth – since its texture proffers a gentle exfoliating action – in tandem with The Organic Pharmacy’s Carrot Butter Cleanser. This rich cleanser thoroughly wipes away any remnants of the day while instantly imparting long-lasting moisture.
    • Step 2: MOISTURIZE. My routine here is the same as in the AM. I mix two drops of The Organic Pharmacy’s Antioxidant Face-Firming Serum with the Rose Plus Anti-Aging Cream, then I apply Julisis’ Eyemulsion.

Weekly:
    • REVITALIZE: Every Saturday, I swab on Dr. Hauschka’s Rejuvenating Mask and I let my skin soak it in for at least two hours. This past year has been especially stressful, but the plant oils and extracts in this mask manage to soften my complexion, refine pores and calm any lingering inflammation.
    • EXFOLIATE: Once a week, I buff dull skin with The Organic Pharmacy’s Flower Petal Deep Cleanser & Exfoliating Mask. My complexion is drier than it was 10 years ago, thanks to menopause, so I need a facial polish that’s mild and non-irritating. This works wonders for sloughing off dead skin, as well as a week’s worth of product trials!
    • FIRM: Twice a week, on days that are particularly taxing, I apply The Organic Pharmacy’s Collagen Boost Mask, which creates an immediate lifting effect. Unlike other masks, you don’t have to wash this product off. In fact, you can apply makeup right over it.

Monthly:
    • BRIGHTEN: Once a month, for six days twice a day, I apply Mey of Switzerland’s Vitamin C Complex. This intensive topical brightener uses a concentrated form of vitamin C that promotes collagen synthesis, repairs sun-damaged skin tissue, and lightens sunspots. Mey of Switzerland is sold exclusively in-store at New London.

Lighten Up: Treating and Preventing Hyperpigmentation

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 10:18:17 -0400

Seeing spots? It’s not your vision, it’s your complexion. This fall, bid adieu to your summer fling with the sun and get your skin looking healthy, radiant and less like that new handbag you’ve been ogling.

Whether you’ve dubbed them sunspots, brown spots, age spots, or just “those darn spots,” the underlying problem is the same: hyperpigmentation. All year long, every single day, your complexion is accosted by free radicals from UV rays, a primary cause of skin damage. And, while most dermatologists – like my go-to guy Dr. Albert Lefkovitz - preach SPF-lathered, fully clothed prevention, no matter how vigilant you are about application, chances are your skin has been exposed to more UV rays than is healthy. That’s the thing about the sun, it’s everywhere.

UV exposure, however, isn’t the only enemy you’re up against. According to a study by the Lancôme Laboratories, pollution amplifies the harmful effects of the sun – an unfortunate but especially useful finding for smog-guzzling Manhattanites. Other results link stress with the accumulation of melanin, and hyperpigmentation can also develop thanks to post-inflammatory trauma, like acne. And that doesn’t take into account hormonal complications.

Birth control pills, menopause supplements, and even pregnancy can boost the odds that you’ll fall victim to the dreaded “mask.” Pregnancy-related pigmentation – also known as melasma – is typically temporary and clears up post-delivery. Hyperpigmentation related to hormone pills can be trickier to treat since these prescriptions usually increase photosensitivity, meaning your skin will overreact to UV exposure by overproducing melanin.

While avoiding hyperpigmentation may sometimes feel like a losing battle, there’s plenty you can do to rejuvenate your weather-beaten bod. Rather than simply sweeping the problem under a heavy coating of foundation, I strive to help clients prevent and erase spots altogether. In an effort to appease the clattering calls of “just tell me what to do!” we’ve simplified the regimen and broken it down by stages.

Pigmentation Prevention: Your best offense is always a good defense and you’re never too young to start protecting your hide from hyperpigmentation. Even if you’re not seeing spots now, that doesn’t mean they’re not lurking deep in your dermis, just waiting to surface – particularly if you’re fair skinned or a former sun worshipper.
   • Step 1: Exfoliate weekly. Sweep away the top layer of the skin and remove excess pigmentation with a chemical, manual or fruit enzyme exfoliator once a week. For more information on proper exfoliation techniques and finding your perfect polish, check out our article on “Summer Slough-Off: Four Favorite Fall Exfoliators.”
   • Step 2: Suit up with sunscreen. An SPF 30+ broad-spectrum sunscreen – meaning it protects against both UVB and UVA rays – is the foundation of any anti-spot regimen. I’ve said it before, but I stand behind Julisis' Sun Emulsion SPF 30. Organic and safe for sensitive skin, this mineral sunscreen hydrates and helps prevent premature aging without leaving a telltale white residue. Just remember, reapply every 2-3 hours, no excuses!
   • Step 3: Spot treat while you sleep. Before bed, apply an antioxidant brightener formulated to fortify the skin’s barrier while stimulating cell turnover. I recommend swabbing The Organic Pharmacy's Rose Plus Brightening Complex on clean skin, every single night. Gentle, efficacious and organic, this spot-stopping serum is loaded with fruit acids and enzymes to exfoliate the skin’s surface, and glucosamine and niacinamide to inhibit melanin production and fade burgeoning sunspots. Dr. Lefkovitz’s Alaur Continuous Improvement Super 'A' Retinol also targets photoaging and diminishes discoloration. Retinol – a non-prescription version of Retin-A or Renova - increases the skin’s natural collagen production and fuels cell repair for a more youthful glow. In general, key ingredients to look for in a brightener include caffeine, fruit acids/enzymes, vitamin C, vitamin A derivatives (like retinol), mushroom extract, arbutin, and niacinamide.

Moderate Hyperpigmentation: Characterized by the appearance of isolated sunspots or a scattering of lightly colored spots, hyperpigmentation tends to start cropping up in our mid-30s and 40s, earlier if you spent your teens roasting to a crispy-fried russet. SPF and antioxidants remain an important part of this skincare routine, but more pronounced pigmentation calls for a more potent treatment protocol.
   • Step 1a: Exfoliation for normal to oily skin types. Refresh your complexion everyday with an alpha hydroxy- or glycolic-based product. For non-sensitive skin, I recommend MD Skincare's Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel, which mimics the effect of an in-office peel by buffing off the top layer of skin and reducing the appearance of pigmented marks, minus any recovery time. Exfoliate at night or suit up with SPF post-scrub since glycolic acid can increase photosensitivity, ultimately resulting in more spots.
   • Step 1b: Exfoliation for sensitive skin. MD Skincare’s Daily Face Peel can sometimes cause irritation in hypersensitive skin, so under these circumstances, I suggest sticking with a natural fruit acid- or retinol- based exfoliator. Nuxe's Creme Etincelante Radiance Resurfacing Care initiates a soft peeling action that instantly refreshes the complexion and gently encourages cell renewal for a smoother, brighter texture. As always, sunscreen is a must after exfoliating.
   • Step 2: Spot treat with a custom hydroquinone compound. Part of my day-to-day routine entails coordinating with doctors and dermatologists to create personalized, prescribed topical compounds. For hyperpigmentation, I can formulate a take-home cream comprised of concentrated hydroquinone, an effective skin whitener; Retin-A, a prescription-strength vitamin A derivative that smoothes wrinkles and speeds cell turnover; and a topical steroid and emollient to prevent irritation. I recommend spot treating with a Q-tip right before bed since hydroquinone increases photosensitivity. Most clients see a marked improvement in intensity in as little as four weeks, but remember, this compound is by prescription only. Call me at 212.243.4987 for more info.

Severe Hyperpigmentation: If that spot has cultivated a whole flock of friends, or you’re experiencing persistent melasma, which settles deeper in the dermis, amp up your approach with dermatologist-administered therapies. Not to sound like a broken record, but SPF is also a crucial part of this pigmentation treatment plan.
   • Step 1: Consult your derm about an in-office chemical peel. Unlike an OTC peel (i.e. MD Skincare’s Alpha Beta mentioned above), dermatologists can safely use higher concentrations of a chemical exfoliator resulting in deeper penetration. As per the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) – and personal experience - the new layer of skin that’s revealed is immediately smoother, less wrinkled, and more consistent in terms of tone and color. Chemical peels increase photosensitivity – which in turn can increase hyperpigmentation – so stay protected post-treatment.
   • Step 2: Spot treat with a custom hydroquinone compound. Refer to Step 2 above in ”Moderate Hyperpigmentation,” for full details.
   • Step 3: Bring in the big guns – a.k.a. laser rejuvenation. According to a promising new study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 60% of patients who underwent 4-6 sessions of fractional laser resurfacing (using a prototype akin to the Fraxel) saw a 75-100% improvement in pigmentation. The Fraxel precisely targets sun damage boosting collagen production while leaving the surrounding tissue untouched. Dr. Lefkovitz, however, warns that not all skin types tolerate the intensity of this particular laser, which can result in redness and swelling for several days post-treatment. In his own practice, Dr. Lefkovitz relies on the Matrix RF. A sub-ablative laser that harnesses energy from both light and radio waves, the Matrix RF addresses pigmentation both above and below the skin’s surface. And, Lefkovitz adds, “This technology can be fine-tuned and adjusted to better treat the patient’s specific needs,” meaning there’s little to no downtime and it can be used successfully on a variety of different complexions. Laser therapy of any kind should only be performed by a board-certified dermatologist – not an aesthetician or technician. To find a qualified MD near you, visit the AAD.

One final note, if any of your pigmented spots exhibit a marked asymmetry; an irregular, scalloped, or poorly defined border; varied color; a diameter larger than 6mm; or it’s evolving and changing, see your dermatologist immediately. Better safe than spotty!

Summer Slough-Off: Four Favorite Fall Exfoliators

Wed, 07 Oct 2009 11:55:43 -0400

After three months of heavy-duty abuse, October offers a prime opportunity to make amends with your skin. A summer’s worth of excess sun exposure, pore-clogging smog, and layers upon layers of sunscreen, bronzer and self-tanner all contribute to an overload of congestion, which in turn causes breakouts, blackheads, and rough patches. Not exactly the dewy summer glow you were hoping for. But just as the trees start shedding their leaves come autumn, I urge my clients to turnover a new leaf with their skincare routine.

One of the easiest ways to reinvigorate dull skin is with at-home exfoliation. When done properly, exfoliation whisks away dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a brighter complexion. A good buffing also boasts the added benefits of boosting circulation, refining the appearance of pores, deep cleansing, and prepping the skin for the application of serums, anti-agers, or antioxidant creams.

When to exfoliate: Since you’re brushing off the superficial layer of your skin and exposing fresh cells that are more susceptible to UV damage, I generally recommend that clients exfoliate at night. If you do exfoliate during the day, don’t forget to slather on a broad-spectrum, non-comedogenic sunscreen, like Julisis’ Sun Emulsion SPF 30. Typically, if a client has a sunburn, rosacea flare up, or if their skin is irritated from shaving, waxing or tweezing, I advise avoiding exfoliation until the inflammation subsides.

What types of products to use: There are several different categories of exfoliators ranging from manual scrubs blended with kernels and beads to enzyme- or chemical-based polishes infused with alpha-hydroxy, glycolic or salicylic acid. But no matter which you choose, when you’re preparing to exfoliate, always start with clean skin and make sure the product you’re using specifies that it’s for the face. Body scrubs are often too coarse for your complexion’s delicate skin. Here are my four favorite facial exfoliators for fall:

   • Aesop Tea Tree Leaf Facial Exfoliant: A grittier, more granular scrub comprised of crushed nut shells, tea tree leaves and purifying clays, Aesop’s Tree Leaf Exfoliant comes in powder form and works synergistically with your favorite cleanser. While this exfoliator is organic (according to Australian standards) and formulated for all skin types, I’d avoid using it on hypersensitive, acne- or rosacea-prone complexions since its grainy texture could provoke irritation. This is a deeply cleansing scrub and so I usually instruct clients with normal skin to use it four times a year - instead of weekly or monthly.

   • Organic Pharmacy Flower Petal Deep Cleanser & Mask: While this non-abrasive exfoliator does require a little legwork – it comes in a powder form that needs to be mixed with water before application – it’s 100% organic, ultra gentle and ultra effective. Infused with oats, lactic acid, soothing lavender, chamomile and rose, this rich formulation can be used as a cleanser or mask to remove dead skin and flush out embedded dirt and grime. Generally, I recommend that clients with acne or moderately oily skin use this product as their morning cleanser. For clients with normal/dry skin that are dealing with t-zone congestion, I suggest using this product as a mask twice a week for a month. And rosacea sufferers fear not: the Flower Petal Deep Cleanser & Mask is mild enough for your easily aggravated skin.

   • Duchess Marden Damascena Hydrating Mask: Although Duchess Marden offers an Enzyme Exfoliator in its collection, I use the brand’s Hydrating Mask once a week on clients who need an extra dose of moisture while sloughing off that lackluster layer of skin. This, however, is not the right product for oily complexions inclined to excess sebum. Free of parabens and chemical preservatives, the Hydrating Mask is brewed with rose water, aloe vera and radish root, which supports microcirculation, plumps up fine lines, and brightens the skin by reining in the overproduction of melanin.

   • MenScience Microfine Face Scrub: Women aren’t the only ones who need to restart with their skin post-summer; in fact, men are particularly prone to congestion thanks to shaving. Ingrown hairs, razor bumps, razor burn - it can all be assuaged with a little routine maintenance. Most of the men I consult with opt for more aggressive products and they love that this MenScience Scrub is loaded with buffing beads and glycolic acid. For normal to oily complexions, I recommend using this once a week to ward off any lurking clogs. And ladies, don’t shy away from products “for him;” it’s all a matter of marketing.

How to properly exfoliate: While many clients assume harsher is better, a rough buff can actually aggravate the skin causing redness, rawness, even breakouts. I suggest dabbing a quarter-sized amount of scrub into the palm of your hand and then applying it to your face using gentle circular strokes sweeping upward from the jaw line to the forehead, taking care to avoid the fragile eye contour. Use about as much pressure as you would rubbing a baby’s cheek. And don’t forget to pamper your skin post-polish with a hydrating serum, cream and SPF, of course!

A Glimpse Behind the Counter - Our Mission

Wed, 07 Oct 2009 10:44:02 -0400

I’m Abby Fazio and welcome to Behind the Counter, an online magazine bringing you the latest in beauty, health and better living. As a licensed pharmacist and a lifelong beauty enthusiast, I began working with Chelsea’s beloved New London Pharmacy in 1977. Ever since, I’ve strived to create a one-stop beauty, health and wellness destination that culls the most unique, most efficacious brands from around the globe. Rather than focusing on big names that are short on results, I stock my shelves with products that keep their promises.

This past year hasn’t been easy on anyone, but during times of distress, I find it more important than ever to treat yourself right, to take care of yourself, to feel beautiful from the inside out. I believe that finding the right product shouldn’t require a bottomless bank account; the right product pays for itself. And that’s where I come in.

As a pharmacist, chemist and all-around beauty buff, my job at New London Pharmacy entails creating customized product regimens for my clients. Whether I’m mixing a prescribed treatment to ward off rosacea or boost a sluggish metabolism, or I’m steering a customer to the proper sun care program (Julisis is my current favorite!), I work on an individual basis with every single person that I counsel.

The most effective product isn’t always the one that harasses you with glossy ads in a magazine; the most effective product is the one that works best for you. And when I’m not behind the counter at New London Pharmacy, I’m usually out road-testing new brands both in the US and abroad – we’re a local neighborhood store with a global outlook.

Behind the Counter is an extension of this belief and its creation fulfils a lifelong dream of mine. Disenchanted with the ad-driven content in many magazines, I want to create a space for honest, unadulterated industry news – a space where I can hopefully help guide you to your next big beauty breakthrough. Twice a month, I’ll be adding features on new brands, trends, tips, tricks and techniques, but I’ll always add my two cents on what works - and what doesn’t. Given the current economy, no one has the time or money to waste on the wrong products.

In addition to our online content, we’ll also be hosting in-store events and skin-clinics, and I can always be reached at New London for individual consultations. My goal is to make Behind the Counter an interactive experience, so if there’s anything you would like to know more about, don’t hesitate to send questions or comments - gathering feedback from my customers is what makes my world go ‘round!

Without further ado, I invite you to sign up and step Behind the Counter. Have a beautiful day.

Yours,
Abby Fazio
Co-founder of New London Pharmacy
246 Eighth Avenue, NYC
212.243.4987