Summer Slough-Off: Four Favorite Fall Exfoliators

After three months of heavy-duty abuse, October offers a prime opportunity to make amends with your skin. A summer’s worth of excess sun exposure, pore-clogging smog, and layers upon layers of sunscreen, bronzer and self-tanner all contribute to an overload of congestion, which in turn causes breakouts, blackheads, and rough patches. Not exactly the dewy summer glow you were hoping for. But just as the trees start shedding their leaves come autumn, I urge my clients to turnover a new leaf with their skincare routine. 

One of the easiest ways to reinvigorate dull skin is with at-home exfoliation. When done properly, exfoliation whisks away dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a brighter complexion. A good buffing also boasts the added benefits of boosting circulation, refining the appearance of pores, deep cleansing, and prepping the skin for the application of serums, anti-agers, or antioxidant creams.

When to exfoliate: Since you’re brushing off the superficial layer of your skin and exposing fresh cells that are more susceptible to UV damage, I generally recommend that clients exfoliate at night. If you do exfoliate during the day, don’t forget to slather on a broad-spectrum, non-comedogenic sunscreen, like Julisis’ Sun Emulsion SPF 30. Typically, if a client has a sunburn, rosacea flare up, or if their skin is irritated from shaving, waxing or tweezing, I advise avoiding exfoliation until the inflammation subsides.

What types of products to use: There are several different categories of exfoliators ranging from manual scrubs blended with kernels and beads to enzyme- or chemical-based polishes infused with alpha-hydroxy, glycolic or salicylic acid. But no matter which you choose, when you’re preparing to exfoliate, always start with clean skin and make sure the product you’re using specifies that it’s for the face. Body scrubs are often too coarse for your complexion’s delicate skin. Here are my four favorite facial exfoliators for fall:

    • Aesop Tea Tree Leaf Facial Exfoliant: A grittier, more granular scrub comprised of crushed nut shells, tea tree leaves and purifying clays, Aesop’s Tree Leaf Exfoliant comes in powder form and works synergistically with your favorite cleanser. While this exfoliator is organic (according to Australian standards) and formulated for all skin types, I’d avoid using it on hypersensitive, acne- or rosacea-prone complexions since its grainy texture could provoke irritation. This is a deeply cleansing scrub and so I usually instruct clients with normal skin to use it four times a year - instead of weekly or monthly.

    • Organic Pharmacy Flower Petal Deep Cleanser & Mask: While this non-abrasive exfoliator does require a little legwork – it comes in a powder form that needs to be mixed with water before application – it’s 100% organic, ultra gentle and ultra effective. Infused with oats, lactic acid, soothing lavender, chamomile and rose, this rich formulation can be used as a cleanser or mask to remove dead skin and flush out embedded dirt and grime. Generally, I recommend that clients with acne or moderately oily skin use this product as their morning cleanser. For clients with normal/dry skin that are dealing with t-zone congestion, I suggest using this product as a mask twice a week for a month. And rosacea sufferers fear not: the Flower Petal Deep Cleanser & Mask is mild enough for your easily aggravated skin.

    • Duchess Marden Damascena Hydrating Mask: Although Duchess Marden offers an Enzyme Exfoliator in its collection, I use the brand’s Hydrating Mask once a week on clients who need an extra dose of moisture while sloughing off that lackluster layer of skin. This, however, is not the right product for oily complexions inclined to excess sebum. Free of parabens and chemical preservatives, the Hydrating Mask is brewed with rose water, aloe vera and radish root, which supports microcirculation, plumps up fine lines, and brightens the skin by reining in the overproduction of melanin.

    • MenScience Microfine Face Scrub: Women aren’t the only ones who need to restart with their skin post-summer; in fact, men are particularly prone to congestion thanks to shaving. Ingrown hairs, razor bumps, razor burn - it can all be assuaged with a little routine maintenance. Most of the men I consult with opt for more aggressive products and they love that this MenScience Scrub is loaded with buffing beads and glycolic acid. For normal to oily complexions, I recommend using this once a week to ward off any lurking clogs. And ladies, don’t shy away from products “for him;” it’s all a matter of marketing.

How to properly exfoliate: While many clients assume harsher is better, a rough buff can actually aggravate the skin causing redness, rawness, even breakouts. I suggest dabbing a quarter-sized amount of scrub into the palm of your hand and then applying it to your face using gentle circular strokes sweeping upward from the jaw line to the forehead, taking care to avoid the fragile eye contour. Use about as much pressure as you would rubbing a baby’s cheek. And don’t forget to pamper your skin post-polish with a hydrating serum, cream and SPF, of course!